Victoria Falls and the Royal Livingstone Hotel, Zambia - March 2025

 Considered one of the seven natural wonders of the world, the Victoria Falls are one of the largest waterfalls on the planet, spanning over 1700 meters, with a height of 108 meters. Located on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, their indigenous name in Lozi, "Mosi-oa-Tunya", means "Thundering Smoke/Smoke that Rises", which is the first impression we had from the sky, shortly before landing at Livingstone airport.

 

 

 Our flight to Livingstone with Airlink only took 1 hour and 45 minutes from Johannesburg's OR Tambo airport. One word of advice: even though toy drones do not require registration by the Zambian CAA (Civil Aviation Authority), an application must be submitted approximately 30 days before arrival and a fee paid for custom clearance (ZMW 1260.00 at the time I'm writing this, which equals about $45). More information is available online. I learned this the hard way by getting my non-professional drone confiscated by the customs upon arrival, which I had to reclaim before checking in for our return flight.

We had initially planned to arrive in style by using a taxi-boat from the airport to the hotel, but the operator we had booked with, Livingstone Adventures, forgot to arrange our transportation. Instead we took a shuttle (not free) with Bushtracks (https://www.bushtracksafrica.com/) that a colleague of mine had previously arranged, unbeknownst to us. How fortunate!

The shuttle ride to the hotel took about 20 minutes, made even more pleasant by our driver who took the time to share his knowledge of the history of his beloved city as we drove through Livingstone's main street. Upon arriving at the hotel, we were greeted by the staff who sang a welcome song to us.

 

 Spread along the banks of the Zambezi river, the Royal Livingstone Hotel opened in 2001 (https://www.anantara.com/en/royal-livingstone). Comprised of 173 suites and 2 restaurants (The Old Drift and Kubu), the hotel grants free unlimited access to the Victoria Falls national park, situated a short 15-minute walk, or a 4-minute golf cart ride, from the grounds. 

After a short check-in process, seated in the tastefully decorated lounge area, with a freshly offered hibiscus ice tea and a relaxing shoulder/neck massage while we waited, we were showed to our room (#5063): a Premier Garden Terrace Room (with breakfast included). Quite pricey, considering the fact that the fares displayed on the website don't include the 10% service charge, 16% VAT and 1.5% tourism levy (added at checkout).

 

 Though nicely decorated, the furnishings were not as luxurious as some of the safari lodges one can usually find in Southern Africa, but the direct access to the grounds from the terrace, where impalas, zebras and giraffes peacefully graze all day, was the main reason why we chose to stay at this particular property (that and the proximity to the waterfall). The true luxury here is the constant care and dedication of the staff, ready to satisfy anything you could wish for. That being said, the common areas of the hotel (bar, lounge, breakfast/dining area and pool) are absolutely stunning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Shortly after settling in, a staff member informed us that two of the five giraffes generally found on the hotel grounds, Junior and his dad (Bob?), were strolling by. We followed him and quickly caught up to the gentle giants.

 Being surrounded all day with giraffes, zebras, impalas and vervet monkeys was quite the experience. And the absence of predators in the Mosi-oa-Tunya national park seems to give them a sense of security, as they go about their business without a care for the humans around them. However, make sure you lock doors and windows of your room at all times or you might find some monkey business evidence upon your return.

 

A short walk golf-cart ride took us straight to the Victoria Falls park gate. The entrance fee is quite expensive ($20 in 2025, both for international visitors and SADC residents, https://victoriafalls.co.zm/), but for us, it was included in the hotel stay, which allowed us to return multiple times for free (all we had to do was fill the registry with our names and room number). Upon entering, we were immediately surrounded by a large number of baboons strolling along the path and around the statue of David Livingstone.

 

The first viewpoint off the path, a mere 40 meters from the park entrance, gave us a breathtaking view of the Eastern Cataract. Luckily, the flood season was in full force (after a disappointing start in December/January, the rainy season, that normally stretches from December to April, finally kicked in, raising the level of the Zambezi river to allow for powerful waterfalls).

 

 

We followed the path, taking us along some more viewpoints, until we reached the Knife Edge Bridge, a metal structure crossing over the canyon, constantly sprayed with  a cloud of water rising from the waterfall. When the sun is shining, the bridge is topped by a beautiful rainbow. However short, the walk on the bridge is enough to get completely drenched. But it is possible to rent a raincoat or a poncho for ZMW 20.00 from a vendor who runs his little business along the path (before the stairs).

 

The remainder of the path forms a loop around the rock formation, offering an amazing view of the Victoria Falls bridge, connecting Zambia to Zimbabwe.

 

 

 Another path, immediately on the left past the entrance of the Victoria Falls Park, leads to a site called Boiling Pot. This trail snakes down the canyon, amidst a lush forest alive with the cries of monkeys and birds. It takes about 45 minutes to complete the round trip (I found the descent to be slightly more treacherous than the climb back up). At the bottom, the Zambezi river follows an elbow where the white waters seem to form a whirlpool, with a spectacular view of the Victoria Falls bridge. It was definitely worth the trek.

 

  Back at the Royal Livingstone Hotel at sunset, a few dancers from the nearby boma entertained the guests while they enjoyed a drink of their choice on the terrace overlooking the Zambezi river. Drinks were pricey and similar to what you would expect to pay on the French Riviera ($7 for a beer, $15 for a gin & tonic). It is, after all, a luxury hotel.

 

We had dinner at both venues, with a preference for The Old Drift over Kubu (whose menus have been changed even though the hotel website has not implemented the updated versions). The cauliflower risotto and the pulled braised lamb were particularly delicious. As for the breakfast buffet, it was absolutely lavish, with an incredible choice of savoury and sweet options, freshly squeezed juices, and even some local fare.

 

 

 After dinner, we usually retreated to our room and sat on the terrace, watching the vervet monkeys run playfully across the lawn under the starry sky and the zebras grazing at our feet, quite literally.

 

 

Our 4-day stay in Livingstone was a truly magical experience, due in no small part to the wildlife constantly surrounding us and the kindness and dedication of the staff of the Royal Livingstone Hotel. Special thanks to Betty, the butler of our unit, who made sure that absolutely everything was perfect with our accommodation, Edward, the hotel host, who shared his country's culture and history with passion and Junior, for this amazing moment.